What follows is a recipe that should be in everyone's cookbook. The short version is: take a shoulder of lamb, rub some tasty Moroccan spices all over it, cook for six and a half hours, gorge yourself. The slightly more verbose version goes something like —
Preheat your oven 220°C/gas mark 7. Put a large shoulder of lamb in a baking tray.
In a dry frying pan toast
- 1 tsp cumin seds
- 1 tsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 1/2 a cinnamon stick
It'll take around 4 minutes for them to cook at medium heat, their smell will tell you when they're done. While they're toasting add to a bowl
- 1 pinch cayenne pepper
- 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
- 2 tsp sweet paprika
- 2 large sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped
- 2 tsp salt
- 1 tbsp olive oil
Once the seeds are toasted grind them to a powder in a pestle and mortar. Add that to the bowl and mix well. Rub half the mixture over one side of the lamb, making sure to get it in all the crevices. Put the lamb on a high sided tray and then in the oven. After 30 minutes use the back of a wooden spoon to rub the remaining spices over the lamb. Add around 100ml of water to the baking tray (take care not to wash any of the spices off the meat), cover the tray with tin foil, and stick it back in at 120-130°C/gas mark 1-2. Return in 6 hours to claim your prize.
The lamb works well with warm pittas, salad (shredded red cabbage and Greek yogurt is good), houmous, a couscous-mint-raisin mix, and baba ghanoush.
I'm inclined to think the tastiest food is that which takes the longest to cook and prepare: bread that you've let rise three or four times, a stew that's been bubbling away all afternoon, or a roast like this one that takes the best part of a day. Something about the anticipation, or the effort that's gone into it (certainly that's the case with bread), makes it better.